Climbing Ropes Explained

There are basically two "types" of ropes, Dynamic and Static. These can be used in a number of applications, depending on their width, length and options. The following will give you an understanding of the different types and options used in most climbing ropes today.

Sizes (Both lengths and widths)Single:

Single ropes are generally between 9.5mm and 11mm in width and vary greatly in length, although the climbing standard seems to be the 10.5mmx50m. The general rule of thumb that thicker is stronger does not necessarily hold true as you would imagine. For example, my Sterling 10.2mmx60m is rated for 10-11 falls; while their 11mmx60m is also rated to 11; and their 9.7mmx60m is only rated to 5. Despite the .5mm difference between mine and the 9.7mm, mine will take 5-6 more falls, where as the .8mm difference between mine and the 11mm really sees no gain. Check the rope's ratings and decide what you're going to be doing on the rope when you make that decision. The thinner the rope, the lighter it is, especially when you have 150' of thread strung out - it can get pretty heavy.

Twin: Twin ropes are two separate ropes of the same size that are designed to be clipped together through each piece of gear. These ropes are extremely thin, usually about 7.6mm each, and are primarily used in ultra-long rock, ice, mixed routes and expeditions that require light-weight gear.

Half or Double: Half or Double ropes are two separate ropes of the same size that are designed to be clipped independently into pieces of gear. These ropes are considerably thicker than the Twin ropes, usually about 8.8mm, so that they can hold a fall should the other fail. Shaky pro, long, scary traverses, and razor sharp rock require the confidence and the security of half (double) ropes. Because they’re used in pairs, half ropes offer climbers many advantages over single ropes such as allowing the leader to clip into protection independently which places far less force on questionable gear; providing more safety for the second in the event of a fall on long traverses; and, they provide the security of an extra rope in case the rope becomes cut from rockfall, sharp edges, or ice tools.

Climbing Rope

Climbing Ropes:
A climbing rope is typically about 60 meters, or 200 feet, long. However, longer ropes are available, up to and in excess of 85 meters. Climbing ropes have changed greatly with the introduction of newer materials. Today's ropes are stronger, lighter, and thinner and come with different characteristics:
Static ropes are more durable, more resistant to abrasion, and lack elasticity. They should only be employed where shock loading never occurs: rapelling (abseiling), spelunking, or canyoning. They can be used to belay a climber. However, a lead climber should never employ a Static rope: in a fall, the rope lacks the required elasticity to minimize injury. Manufacturers typically use only two colors for the sheath.
Dynamic (Climbing) Ropes stretch under a shock load, absorb some of the shock force and protect the climber. They are designed to belay a lead climber or for top-roping. Manufacturers typically use three or more colors for the sheath to distinguish them from static ropes.

Rope Care

The care of ropes varies from total neglect: ignoring the end of a dock line, unwhipped, unravelling and trailing in the water, to the obsessional: washing a climbing rope after every use and decompensating if anyone even thinks about treading on it.
Modern good-quality rope, properly treated against UV damage, is extraordinarily resilient and lasts for many years. Indeed, attempts to show marked deterioration due to age, chemicals, and misuse are more remarkable for the strength preserved than for the damage done.
Protection:
Nevertheless, while modern ropes may be resilient to damage, the ends must still be protected against unravelling, and rope should be coiled, or kept, so that it is ready for use when needed: kink free, knot free, and twist free.
Rope Ends
Heat: For rope made of nylon, polyethelene, polyester, or polypropylene, the ends can be protected moderately well by melting them using flame, electrically heated element, or soldering iron. However, merely cutting the rope with an electrically heated element provides very poor protection: the thin layer of solid plastic created does not survive compression or abuse. Careful, prolonged heating provides better protection by building up a protective layer of solidified plastic on the end of the rope. However, nothing beats also adding a properly applied whipping. If you value your ropes, whip and burn all their ends.
Charring: Aramid fibers, e.g., Kevlar, are merely charred by heat. Burning these ropes provides no protection. If the rope has a core and a sheath, the sheath may melt and provide a ring of solid plastic round the core. However, if the core merely chars, it is far too likely to pull out or retract inside to be a satisfactory long term protection. The ideal way to finish such a rope is to use a Sailmaker's whipping short of the end, cut the core shorter than the sheath, and then burn the end of the sheath to enclose and cover the core.
Coiling:
Many techniques are described for coiling ropes. The underlying expectation is the same: when the rope is needed, it should pull smoothly from the coil without forming knots or twists - far easier said than done. Opinions vary as to: whether the coil should consist of stacked figure 8 turns or should consists of alternate loops twisted in opposite directions; whether the coil should be folded in half before completion; and how the coil should be secured. In general the worst way to store a rope is flat on the ground as a Flemish Flake (spiral coil). Not only will it get dirty, it is too likely to have multiple twists and kinks if pulled out in a hurry.
Whipping:
Many techniques are also described for whipping a rope's end. Although nothing beats a Sailmaker's whipping, it requires a needle and takes time. Properly applied, simpler techniques such as the West Country or the Sailor's whipping provide good protection and are completed more easily and quickly.

teknik capsize

nanti kalau ada masa aku post cerita ni plak

berkayak di pantai

berikut adalah beberapa aspek yang perlu dititikberatkan semasa menjalankan aktiviti berkayak di kawasan pantai.

1. kemahiran pendayung - sekiranya pendayung berada di tahap beginer, wajib melakukan aktiviti di bawah pemantauan jurulatih.
2. cuaca - pastikan aktiviti dilaksanakan semasa cuaca baik dan air laut berombak kurang dari 1 meter
3. ancaman haiwan berbisa - periksa kawasan pantai supaya bebas dari ancaman obor-obor dan rambutan laut.

hand roll for kayaking

Guna kayak single jenis dancer pun boleh yg kenu polo pun ok.. rodeo boleh susah sikit la..kalau nak tu x kisah.. lakukan hip flip di darat dulu. lutut berada pada knee brace..

step 1- badan mesti dalam keadaan tergantung apabila capsize.

step 2- aku cadangkan ( part nie-lain padang lain belalang-) terus baring ke belakang.
belakang badan dan kepala menyentuh aftdeck.

step 3- tekan / tepuk permukaan air menggunakan tangan yang dominan

Ansur maju 1-menekan permukaan air menggunakan papan / blade / B.A. / Bow kayak
sambil hip flip

Ansur maju 2- gunakan sesuatu yang lebih kecil dari blade dan lebih besar dari tapak
tangan.

step 4- jika mahu naik dari portside - gunakan tangan kanan untuk menekan air. apabila kayak
1/2 timbul, tangan kiri bersedia digerakkan melepasi kepala. tangan kiri melakukan
separuh bulatan. untuk memastikan kayak kembali ke atas. begitu juga jika sebaliknya
mahu naik dari starboard.

alat untuk belaying

untuk melakukan xtvt belaying, belayer mesti mempunyai :
1 half harnest
1 ovul carabinar (steel)
1 gri gri (petzl )
rope semi sintetic
belayer jgn lupa pakai helmet plak!
Semua item ini mesti berada pada belayer.

org kat atas yang kena belay pun kene ada:
1 half harnest / full body harnest
1 ovul carabinar (steel)
rope semi sintetic