24 Julai 2008

Climbing Ropes Explained

There are basically two "types" of ropes, Dynamic and Static. These can be used in a number of applications, depending on their width, length and options. The following will give you an understanding of the different types and options used in most climbing ropes today.

Sizes (Both lengths and widths)Single:

Single ropes are generally between 9.5mm and 11mm in width and vary greatly in length, although the climbing standard seems to be the 10.5mmx50m. The general rule of thumb that thicker is stronger does not necessarily hold true as you would imagine. For example, my Sterling 10.2mmx60m is rated for 10-11 falls; while their 11mmx60m is also rated to 11; and their 9.7mmx60m is only rated to 5. Despite the .5mm difference between mine and the 9.7mm, mine will take 5-6 more falls, where as the .8mm difference between mine and the 11mm really sees no gain. Check the rope's ratings and decide what you're going to be doing on the rope when you make that decision. The thinner the rope, the lighter it is, especially when you have 150' of thread strung out - it can get pretty heavy.


Twin: Twin ropes are two separate ropes of the same size that are designed to be clipped together through each piece of gear. These ropes are extremely thin, usually about 7.6mm each, and are primarily used in ultra-long rock, ice, mixed routes and expeditions that require light-weight gear.


Half or Double: Half or Double ropes are two separate ropes of the same size that are designed to be clipped independently into pieces of gear. These ropes are considerably thicker than the Twin ropes, usually about 8.8mm, so that they can hold a fall should the other fail. Shaky pro, long, scary traverses, and razor sharp rock require the confidence and the security of half (double) ropes. Because they’re used in pairs, half ropes offer climbers many advantages over single ropes such as allowing the leader to clip into protection independently which places far less force on questionable gear; providing more safety for the second in the event of a fall on long traverses; and, they provide the security of an extra rope in case the rope becomes cut from rockfall, sharp edges, or ice tools.

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